Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Rock 'N India

So just for the record... on my last night in India, I saw Iron Maiden. it was rocktacular... took me right back to 1986 man. I was struck by several facts: 1) Iron Maiden still totally rock as hard as they ever did, 2) most of these songs were written before most of the Indian audience were born and 3) that did not stop everyone from enjoying the hell out of themselves.

The best part of the evening for me was discovering a new India rock band that I get a kick out of. Parikrama opened for Maiden, which was both a great opportunity as well as a difficult burden (as we were all chanting 'maiden! maiden!' between all of their songs. You can check them out, including a slew of MP3 downloads, here: http://www.parikrama.com/home.html

also while in India I met quite a few local musicians. One of the PMs at the company I was working with has a great band, MapleReed, with a video available on YouTube. Check it out! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrWuZJ0EsSI

they are trying to get into the top 20 list under www.worldsings.com support local music around the world (is that a contradiction?) and vote for them!


Rock on, brothers and sisters!

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Home safe and well

It was quite an adventure. The most difficult part was the 27 hour trip back home... eigh. but now that I'm back it was worth it, as I really missed Seattle.

And for the record, I never contracted any type of disease, or even upset stomach during my trip, despite being warned by everyone that I would. The food was like nothing I have ever had, and my body may take weeks to get back to a normal Seattle diet but other than that I weathered it all better than I expected!

Aero India

I’ve mentioned the huge air show that was going on while I was in Bangalore. But what I came to realize, reading the papers each day, was that this was not just fireworks and celebration of military might like the airshows I have seen in the US. This was actually probably the worlds largest trade show for the military industrial complex, world arms and munitions dealers, and those that purchase such wares. The discussions in the papers were comparisons of the maneouverability and weapons displays of Russian, Chinese, Israli, French, and occasionally American military aircraft. In fact apparently the big hit of the show was the new MiG fighter from Russia, with it’s ‘cobra maneouver’. Also a big controversy here was the US selling a new squadron of F16s to Pakistan. This is a nation in a volatile area of the world, in a new kind of cold war with its own neighbors, where instead of threats and posturing there is actual terror attacks and bombings, and its taken 3 months for the government of Pakistan to admit that the Mumbai attacks were launched from Karachi and actually make any arrests in the case.

On a lighter note: for Valentines day, a large group of Indian peace activists released a fleet of boats onto a river that winds its way from India into Pakistan, with a message of love. After all this IS a country whose founding father was a pacifist ;^)

 George Washington vs Mahatma Gandhi

Indians have a very different sense of history than Americans. Of course they do… for one, it’s a longer history. I can walk down the street from my hotel and see buildings that are 100, 200, or even temples 500+ years old that are still inhabited and in use today.

When we went to Tipu Sultan’s summer palace, there was a museum inside with displays and discussions of the battles between the British and India. There were British tourists there, and one of my friends explained to me that that is common, as it is there history too. What surprised me was that the battles being discussed took place in the early 1800s, and the British generals they were talking about were the same generals that had recently lost to George Washington during the American Revolution. Apparently they came to India to take out their frustration. It amazed me how all things are interconnected, even back then, on a global scale. As they used to say, the sun never sets on the British empire.
The founding father of this nation was Mahatma Gadhi. His face is on all of the paper currency, and his image is painted everywhere. I had to reflect on how our nation was founded in war, and we look up to General George Washington, whereas they admire and strive to emulate one of the greatest pacificts of all time, who led a non-violent revolution against the exact same colonial power that we fought.

Of course my twisted adolescent mind had to imagine the old Celebrity Death Match from MTV in the late 80s where claymation celebrities would duke it out. George Washington vs Mahatma Gandhi anyone? I can totally picture it…

 If you believe in God, then God will believe in you

One of my favorite sentiments from my trip came from our Guide at Mysore Palace. A big part of his tour was to point out the multiculturalism, diversity and intentional integration of arts, crafts, thoughts and beliefs from around the world. Even the architecture of the palace was designed to incorporate traditional Hindu, Muslim and Christian designs, which made for an interesting look. Also on the palace grounds are Hindu temples, Muslim mosques, and a Christian cathedral. The palace incorporated bronze tiger statues and stained glass from Scotland, traditional India carvings in wood and stone (everything was hand-carved, incredibly intricate down to the smallest detail, and patterns were consistent across entire walls and rooms) as well as technology imported from Britain and the US. Apparently Mysore palace was the first location in Asia to use electric lights from General Electric, and they had 100 year old fans in place that still work to this day.

The message was clear: the best (only?) way to overcome diversity was to celebrate it as a strength rather than a liability. Only through diversity can we synthesize new ideas and move forward to create our own history in the future. Traditionalists here (everywhere really) tend to see this as a threat to a pristine culture; I don’t see this as the case and many here seem to agree with me. Learn your history and culture, and celebrate it. Learn the history and culture of others, and celebrate that, too. Take the best parts of all, and make it your own. As the young Indians that are involved in a cultural struggle with fundamentalists here have asserted, no one person is the guardian of culture. They are Indians too, and the culture is THEIRS to do with as they collectively see fit.

Our guide at one point quoted the last reigning king of Mysore, who said to people of different faiths who questioned him about Hinduism: If you believe in God, then God will believe in you. This was what I was thinking when I had a chance to enter and pray in the Hindu temple; it’s a pretty powerful statement, when you really think about it. Makes you wonder, who is doing the pushing around of things in the universe, if the pushee becomes the pusher...

Friday, February 13, 2009

Valentines Day

** UPDATED**

The big controversy here right now is about Valentine's Day.

Apparently there is a Hindu fundamentalist group here that is concerned with the influence of Western culture on traditional Indian/Hindu culture. They oppose all of the 'Days'-- Fathers Day, Mothers day, Valentines Day, etc -- on the grounds that they are just an excuse to market and sell western products, and that love and family should really be celebrated throughout the year. Frankly in principle I agree with them... however they took it a bit too far.

The group's leader publicly announced that they would have groups roaming the streets of Bangalore on VDay, scouting for your couples expressing public displays of affection, and force them to get married on the spot! There was of course an outcry and scandals in the paper.

What really amused me however was the fact that a group formed, thanks to social networking websites, named the 'consortium of loose and pub-going women' to protest this group. And their protest consisted of encouraging women to send the leader of this group pink 'chaddis' (panties!)

Its the same thing you see all over the place. In a democratic society, you have the right to live pretty much how you choose to, until your actions infringe on the rights of others. The problem comes when people get the misguided notion that they have the right to control every aspect of their society, by controlling the actions of others. The funny thing is that the will of the people will always win out in the end. And these guys, by making such a big stink about nothing, have ended up catalyzing not only people who were on the fence about their cause, but people who at first did not care one way or another. Now there is a huge organized resistance to them, and its not going to go away anytime soon. Power to the Chaddis!

This controversy made it on MSNBC

Also I was interested to note that the office I am working in made a point of decorating for Valentine's day, to make a statement in support of freedom of expression. Rock on.

Bangalore Seasons

The seasons are strange in subtropical Bangalore. When I arrived here, this tree outside my hotel balcony was full and lush (you can see it out the window):
From Bangalore


By the end of the first week, it was almost entirely bare:
From Bangalore Day Six


By the end of the second week, it was already growing new sprouts all over.

I also chuckled at the reports in the newspaper about the health issues caused by the temperature change... sore throats, lung infections, increases in hospital cases. Its been in the 80s every day I've been here. In Seattle, we get sick when it gets cold, apparently here they get sick when the weather warms up!

Eat My Shorts

heh I was really amused when I had to have my laundry done at the hotel. You just leave it in a laundry bag on the bed, fill out a form indicating how much of each item, press, dryclean, etc.

When I got home from work late that night, my clothes were all neatly folded on my bed waiting for me. As I put them away I thought about some Indian laundress folding my Star Wars and Bart Simpsom boxer shorts. Priceless!

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

(almost) lost

so last night I was calmly enjoying my ride back to the hotel.

I had a diferent driver, a bit older than my regular driver I have had most days since I have been here.
I did not think much of it, as occasionally I have had different drivers, as I'm working weird hours and getting
out of the office anywhere from 8 to 12:30 pm. As with most of my regular drivers (and not much different than
most cab drivers in Seattle) he is on his cell phone the whole time. But all of a sudden this guy turns around to
look at me, and starts insisting 'U-turn? U-turn?'

I was kind of drifting off and not paying much attention to the road. all of a sudden I come to my senses, look around,
and try to tell him, no, its the next one. so instead of taking the uturn he was starting to take, he veers across all
lanes of traffic and exits the highway, the wrong way.

As I try to explain his mistake, and (now that I have my bearings) tell him where he needed to turn, it becomes painfully
obvious to me that he understands very little of what I am saying.

now I'm getting worried. I'm wondering, if I got out now, could I walk back to the hotel? and I'm thinking, I'm not sure
I want to do that. Luckily we only get about half a kilometer before he pulls a uturn and starts heading back at least
more generally in the right direction. I'm thinking that with hand gestures I can probably guide him back.

Then, he sees some sort of guard booth for a hotel or parking lot, with a uniformed guard inside and a few guys standing
around. he screeches to a halt in the middle of the road, shuts off the car, and calls to them. They all ask me my hotel,
which is 37 Crescent: its both the name of the hotel, AND the address, 37 Crescent Road. but I think that made it more
confusing for them: "hotel? hotel?" "37 Crescent" "what address?" "37 crescent" These guys are looking at me like
I am a moron.

After each one of the bystanders opines on the best way to find a hotel that no one seems to know anything about, and
several phone calls, we get going on the road again. Its clear that its up to me to get myself home, so I start directly
guiding my driver.

At this point, he's driving down the middle of the freeway, doing about 15 mph, cars and motorcycles careening around us
on all sides. When I see the correct uturn, it takes a while to convince him to take it. ("here?" "yes" "here?" "yes,
uturn, then left" "here??" "yes yes, take a uturn, then left, yes!") so he takes the uturn, but will not take the left.
so we end up going back down the highway a few blocks, until he finally stops and starts asking more bystanders for
directions. I am frantically trying to explain to all of them, "its right back there" gesticulating wildly at the road
we just passed. so, and this was just perfect, he shifts into reverse and proceeds to back through oncoming highway traffic
until we return to the correct street, where he blocks the intersection turning the car around, then finally takes the correct
turn.

then as we are dricing down the road he is still
obviously unsure of himself. he's ready to stop at any house or parked car ("here?" "no" "here?" "no" "here?" "no,
straight!") even when there is clearly no side street, he's asking and looking like he's going to turn ("left?" "no,
straight" "left?" "no, keep going" "right?" "no, no!")

Finally, when I successfully guide him to the hotel, I point at the big sign that says 37 crescent, and he erupts in hilarious
laughter. I think he finally realized that I was not completely insane. at least thats one of us. :^)e

More Roadtrip pics...

I got a copy of the pics from Rohith's camera, and am uploading them now. They can be accessed here:

Bangalore Day Eight (Rohiths Cam)


From Bangalore Day Eight (Rohiths Cam)


captions and more stories to come later...

Monday, February 9, 2009

Speed Bumps

On our way to Mysore, I became acutely aware of the plethora of speed bumps in India. Based on what I have observed, this (along with portable metal gates randomly placed on the roads) is the primary means of controllling speed and flow of traffic. Poor Rohith kept wincing as he slowly eased his low-riding Honda over (or around, when possible) the larger of these speed bumps, often with a horrible scraping sound coming from the undercarriage.

On the way back to Bangalore after dark, it was particularly difficult to see the bumps coming up, as I did not notice that there were signs or markers of any sort. When I commented on this the next day in the office, I was told that there is not really any central authority that handles creation or regulation of these speed bumps. In other words, it seems that individuals or neighborhoods put them in as they see fit, if they feel the traffic is too much or too fast! I seem to recall a Malcolm in the Middle episode about this ;^)

The Air India show is this week. This appears to be similar to Seafair back in Seattle (except much bigger.) The festivities are taking place at the new Bangalore International Airport... the offices I am working in are on the main road to the airport. This morning I noticed a distinct change... my once sleepy hotel was bustling with activity and guests down for breakfast (prior to this, often I was the only guest eating at the buffet.) The road and traffic was even more crazy if thats possible. I'm not sure if I will get a chance to see any of the airshow. There is a rooftop cafeteria with a grand view of the outskirts of Bangalore, possibly I can catch some aerial acrobatics from there. Despite being a pacifist, I have always loved a good airshow... too bad those jets are designed to kill people. :^(

Again, back to work. Things are pretty crazy here, not to mention I am trying to keep up with developments back in Seattle. No rest for the wicked!

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Roadtrip

Yesterday I took an absolutely incredible roadtrip from Bangalore to a city called Mysore (and Wild Places in between!)

From Bangalore Day Eight


From Bangalore Day Eight


There is so much to describe, each stop along the way deserves it's own post. but simply because everyone has been asking me for a blog update, here's the highlights with links to the huge photo album I have uploaded of the day: (I will let the photos do the talking)

  • Janapada Loka Indian Folk Culture Center

    From Bangalore Day Eight


    From Bangalore Day Eight



  • Ranganathitu Wildlife Sanctuary

    From Bangalore Day Eight


    Crocodiles sunning themselves on a rock...
    From Bangalore Day Eight


  • Tipu Sultan's summer palace

    From Bangalore Day Eight



  • Mysore Palace

    From Bangalore Day Eight


    I rode on an elephant...
    From Bangalore Day Eight

    Prayed at a Hindu temple...
    From Bangalore Day Eight


  • Brindavan Botanical Gardens



    From Bangalore Day Eight


    From Bangalore Day Eight


    From Bangalore Day Eight



    Then we returned to Mysore Palace to view it lit up at night:
    From Bangalore Day Eight



    An incredible day!
    From Bangalore Day Eight

    Stories to come... for now, back to work.
  • Friday, February 6, 2009

    The other side of the world...

    It continues to amaze me that almost all of my friends and family (excluding of course all of my new friends in Bangalore) are on the other side of the world from me. When I call my girlfriend when I get home at night, its first thing in the morning for her. When I wake up in the morning, folks in Seattle are just wrapping up work for the day.

    I've been working with a team in India for over a year and a half now and I have gotten used to the logistics of it all. But its still a mindbending experience.

    My commute to work is pretty short and not incredibly interesting but I'm still capturing shots of some of the sights. Here's a minaret from a mosque:
    From Bangalore Day Seven


    Despite some unrest and difficulties, its inspirational to me to know that India is a land of Hindus, Christians and Muslims all living together in relative harmony. If you think there is diversity in America you are way wrong, we would face real challenges trying to bridge as large of gaps of language, religion and culture (and even of diet, the first thing you are asked in every restaurant is whether you are veg or non-veg.) I guess these guys have had a few thousand years to work out how to get along. And it was pointed out to me that India is the worlds largest democracy, a feature worthy of respect. The public discourse is vigorous and healthy here!


    This morning, Vikas showed me the worlds smallest coconut.
    From Bangalore Day Seven


    Also I never tire of the brightly painted trucks here. These are everywhere, the equivalent of US 18 wheelers from what I can tell.
    From Bangalore Day Seven


    sure beats the hell out of sillouhettes of bikini girls, or 'no fear' stickers.

    back to work... peace, out!

    Thursday, February 5, 2009

    Shakin the Potato Tree

    Ok so I woke up this morning to this terrible racket outside. I go out on my balcony and there is some dude sitting in the tree shaking the hell out of it.

    From Bangalore Day Six


    As soon as he saw me he started climbing down. The doormen and security guards helped him out with a ladder.

    From Bangalore Day Six



    This tree has these weird things growing on it that honestly look like potatoes. Was that what he was after?


    From Bangalore Day Six


    Also I found out that the women sweeping the street DO work for the city. They are everywhere... and they do a damn good job, honestly, considering how much dust and crap is everywhere.

    Major Meat, 4 day Weddings, and Psychedilia

    Thus far on this trip I have not tired of noticing the subtle cultural differences between the US and India, despite the whirlwind of activity that work here has become.

    First off, I cannot sort out my calendar. My laptop automagically synchs with Seattle time every time I log into to work over VPN. And tho I got pretty used to converting Seattle time to Bangalore time, I cannot wrap my mind around the opposite. I actually have 2 cells phones, one set to Seattle the other to Bangalore so I can tell what the fuck is going on. (Its the same way with the exchange rate. for some reason I cannot wrap my mind around converting $1 to $44 rupees. even when I try to round up to 50, I still have no gut feel for it.) So this morning when I got to the office, I realized I was late to give a presentation to all of the dev and QA leads here, explaining our entire business model and systems architecture. yikes! I think I did ok, once I got started. I think my training in musical improvisation has held me in good stead ;^) I was really dancing a bit but I pulled it off and answered all of the questions the team posed to me.

    Not long after this I went out to lunch. Every day I am getting to go out with a few of the guys, trying to get to know everyone a little better and do some cross-cultural pollination. Today's destination was Kabob Studio (Major Meat!, as some co-workers told me when they recommended the place.)

    From Bangalore Day Five


    From Bangalore Day Five


    From Bangalore Day Five


    From Bangalore Day Five

    From Bangalore Day Five


    These guys look so serious... they were just laughing with me moments before I grabbed my camera and snapped this. I think people are getting tired of my tourista schtick. Too bad for them, I'm not!
    From Bangalore Day Five


    Best thing about Kabob Studio was the portable BBQ they put in the center of the table.
    From Bangalore Day Five


    After lunch, we made some really good progress on bug resolution and really put my mind at ease. The dedication that this team shows is truly remarkable. They are willing to do whatever it takes, and repeatedly assure me that 'we cannot fail.' That is what you want to hear...

    Based on our progress, I was happy to get out of the office by 10:30 (about 1 1/2 hours earlier than the past 2 nights... thank god too, its starting to wear on me.) On the way home I noticed a few places that were having parties or receptions... in India, when there is something going on, they drape the entire building in what we would call christmas lights. As anyone that knows me knows how I go a little nuts with the christmas lights, you can imagine I was loving it.

    From Bangalore Day Five


    Across the street from my hotel, there has been a wedding going on pretty much since the day I got here.
    From Bangalore Day Five


    From Bangalore Day Five


    I've been to an Indian style wedding in Seattle. It lasted about 4 hours (just the ceremony) and when done I was wondering why the hell they couldnt have opened the bar earlier to help me get through the experience! However I was informed today that real Indian weddings normally last 5 days or more.
    From Bangalore Day Five



    I was on a roll snapping photos, so after walking over to snap the wedding lights and decorations, I caught a few of the hotel. Its so psychedelic 70s!
    From Bangalore Day Five


    From Bangalore Day Five


    And check this out: the front page story in the newspaper here is how conservative mobs are planning to roam the streets on valentines day, looking for young couples holding hands or kissing, and force them to marry on the spot. We teased one of the devs that this might be his best chance to get a girl!

    From Bangalore Day Five

    Wednesday, February 4, 2009

    Bugs, Bugs Bugs

    And I don't mean insects. I was fighting code bugs all day that kept getting resolved then reappearing... a very frustrating day. I'm tired and cranky and have a headache. So today I will keep my bitching to myself and share some photos...

    I'm not sure what this thing is. But I had them for breakfast... it is basically a spicy donut, full of onions and peppercorns and such. they are good.

    From Bangalore Day Four


    MMMM
    From Bangalore Day Four



    Decorations out front of my hotel. I've noticed a recurring theme of floating flowers in small pools or bowls of water...
    From Bangalore Day Four


    From Bangalore Day Four



    Not sure what the hunger strike is about. Though I do know that Feb to June is a hellza long time...
    From Bangalore Day Four


    I mean, with all of these freaking coconuts everywhere, theres no reason to go hungry
    From Bangalore Day Four


    Caught one of the 'please sound horn' trucks
    From Bangalore Day Four


    In the US I know many folks that have small saints, angels or Jesus on their dashboard (one of my buddies used to have what he called his 'parking angel' LOL); here its Ganesha, the half human half elephant god... I surretipitously snapped this on the way to work this morning:
    From Bangalore Day Four



    I've been working very closely with one of the dev leads here on these bugs and issues, which means we have both been in the office until midnight the past few days. We took a walk down the street to grab some chinese food for dinner (I've actually been to several good chinese restaurants since coming here.) Over dinner we had some interesting discussions. He was surprised to hear that there are those that follow astrology, tarot cards and feng shui in the US. I was surprised to think that many of the things that shape (however subtly) me and my partner's world view are fundametally at their core derived from Indian mysticism. I know my honey would really enjoy it here, the more I talk to folks.

    Outside the mall is a fountain and a golden statue of Ganesha (the same statue my driver has on his dashboard.) My colleague explained to me that Ganesha is used to bring you luck in new endeavors. I told him we should get some Ganeshas, all that we can ;^)

    From Bangalore Day Four


    From Bangalore Day Four




    One unfortunate thing that the US and India have in common is firsthand experience with terrorism. Maybe we DO need more of Ganesha's luck, all of us.
    From Bangalore Day Four

    (From what I gather matrubhumi means 'country' or 'motherland')