Saturday, June 20, 2009

Commercial Street

Sorry for the lack of blog posts, but its been an extremely busy trip. I have been working around the clock, in the office working local hours, then up late every night working Seattle hours. By Friday I was completely burned out by about 3pm, but we were trying to get some software builds and launch plans ready so I kept pushing through until our car came at 7. I have never been so happy to sleep after dinner... I put in my headphones and was dead to the world before the second song had finished...

On Saturday, we went to Commercial Street in Bangalore to do some shopping.

From Bangalore 2009.06.19



From Bangalore 2009.06.19


The first store we went too was a complete ripoff. Unfortunately I cannot do the currency conversion in my head so I didn't figure that out until it was too late. Luckily I was able to find some decent deals wandering the shops, especially this tiny little curiosity shop that was barely big enough for a single person to squeeze in, every square inch filled with statues of buddhas, Ganeshas, cruxifixes, etc. This was more the kind of shopping I expected in Bangalore.

From Bangalore 2009.06.19



From Bangalore 2009.06.19


From Bangalore 2009.06.19


BTW I took my first ride in an autorickshaw yesterday.

From Bangalore 2009.06.19

Honestly I didn't even have time to consider what was happening, I was on my way to lunch with some of the developers and they just hailed one and we jumped in. Its pretty crazy to be hanging out the side of one of these things in busy traffic, on what amounts to a minor highway. But it was fun... I wish I could get one for zipping around town back home ;^)

This pic demonstrates a common urban problem here:
From Bangalore 2009.06.19


Tomorrow Arun and I are off on a road trip, so I expect to have many pictures to share and a new post. Until then, peace.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Back to Bangalore

My first clue that this trip was going to be different was the foggy haze outside the windows of the plane as we taxied to our gate. I was in an aisle seat, so I peered over the heads of my fellow travellers, still wiping the sleep from my eyes, trying to get a glimpse of what lay ahead... all I could see was the glow of floodlights diffused in a deep fog. The last time I was here, there was never a cloud in the sky or even a hint of moisture.

I got to my hotel and was checked in by 6am. After a brief and refreshing nap I got some breakfast of idli sambar, my favorite from last time: its a steamed lentil dumpling served over a spicy vegatable soup. The sun was high now and Bangalore looked more like I remembered, hot and bright.

I'm still never sure the best way to deal with jetlag. luckily on this flight I got a considerable amount of sleep, which was amazing considering that generally I have never been able to sleep on a plane. After checking my email it seemed that chaos was breaking loose at work; I took another brief nap after breakfast and then headed into the office to try to get a handle on things. Our 'morning' status calls in Seattle start at 10pm in Bangalore; my goal was to make it throught this call and then make it back to the hotel for some dinner.

Occasionally I caught a glimpse out the window at the office, and I marveled at the overcast sky. It looked more like Seattle than the Bangalore I remembered.

As I left the office I was in for a shock. The rains had begun, and it was a rain like none I had ever seen before. There is a small balcony outside the main entrance to the office on the 4th floor, and water pourded through in sheets, running down the marble floor and presumably running down the elevator shafts. Thankfully my driver pulled right up to the back door, and the security guard was kind enough to bring an umbrella to keep me and my laptop dry. The drive home was truly amazing. There were inches of running or standing water on the roadway; occasionally a small river would be flowing crossways to the car and you could feel its pull as we slowly drove through. Small groups of motorcyclists were huddled under overpasses, possibly trying to wait it out. The rain showed no signs of letting up, and bright flashes of lightning illuminated the dark sky.

Despite the fact that the traffic was just as crazy as it is when things are dry here, and we had several close calls, I only saw one accident; a string of cars had clearly been involved in a chain reaction fender bender and were huddled beside their row of motionless cars trying to sort out the damage in the deluge.

Back at the hotel the concierge asked if I had had my dinner; when I suggested room service he insisted that I head up to the rooftop restaurant. I was glad he did, as it was an impressive experience... the dining room is covered in a heavy duty tarp stretched over a pipe frame, and it was deafening in the downpour. The lightning show over the skyline of Bangalore was like a constant strobe at times, with lightning flashes constantly in all directions. I stood with a security guard and my waiter, sipping a kingfisher and marveling at the rain. Even the locals seemed impressed. After dinner I chatted with the chef and he said that recently in a nearby village a 7 year old had been washed away by similar rains.

I probably stayed in the dining room far too long but I didn't feel bad, as the staff seemed to be enjoying watching the storm as much as I was. Finally around midnight I thanked them and headed to my room, to watch the lightning flashes through my now-steamed up windows and try to catch up on a few final emails.

I was here a mere 4 months ago. Things seem amazingly familiar to me, not at all as foreign as they seemed the last trip. But I can tell already that I will be seeing a different side of this city this time around.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Mahalo!

What a fantastic trip to Hawaii. Here's a photo post to cover some of the highlights.

Snorkeling at Hanauma Bay. To quote Laura, "this is one of the coolest things I have ever done in my life." Its a marine wildlife sanctuary, where you can snorkel with schools of tropical fish and endangered sea turtles. Last time I was here, they would sell you little bags of fish food and you would literally get attacked by schools of the little bastards. This time, they discourage fish feeding. Also, I noticed that there were not nearly as many fish as there were in the early 90s. However it was still fantastic... we were disapointed to not encounter a sea turtle, but folks nearby us did so we know they were out there!

From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics


From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics


From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics


In this one you can really see how close you are to these giant fish!
From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics


From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics


Moray Eel!
From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics


From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics


This pic caught the surface of the water, with the fish below. Gives you a feeling of what it was like snorkeling there!
From Hawai'i Hanauma Bay Underwater Pics



We were exhausted after snorkeling and slept well that night. The next day we drove up to the North Shore to explore, finding an amazing beach park where I communed with the Island Gods...

From 2009-04-25 hawaii 09


then we discovered Kahuku shrimp. Theres an area of the North Shore that is famous for shrimp farms, they had them in ponds on the side of the road.

From 2009-04-25 hawaii 09


We bought some shrimp from a shack along the highway, and let me tell you they tasted like little lobsters, it was the most amazing shrimp I have ever had. Between that and the fresh coconut, honey mango, apple bananas, and avocado we bought from some old ladies at the side of the road we had a literal tropical feast. Next time I go I would forgo the touristy luau and its rich food for these more rare, local island treats!

From 2009-04-25 hawaii 09


The morning of our last day, we hiked to the summit of Diamond Head, an extinct volcano crater overlooking Honolulu and Waikiki beach. The view from the summit is amazing, but you work for it (over 700 ft elevation gain, pretty much straight up.)

From 2009-04-25 hawaii 09


From 2009-04-25 hawaii 09


All in all an incredible trip that left me really wanting to travel more!!

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Aloha!

Our first 24 hours in Honolulu have been a combination of relaxation and exhausting activity!

From Hawaii Day Zero


The flight was pretty pleasant, with a nice gradual ascent out of Seattle that offered absolutely amazing views of the Olympic mountains (unfortunatly no pics, sorry!) I watched the movie Marley and Me with no sound, it was funnier that way as I could make up my own stupid dialog. The movie really irritated me as it was 2 hours of Owen Wilson chasing after some damn dog... then the worst part was when the dog dies at the end I still ended up crying over it like a baby. I even knew what was going to happen and spent the first half of the movie wishing that damn dog would die. eigh.

From Hawaii Day Zero


Once we arrived we were starving, we wandered Waikiki and stumbled into "Cheeseburger in Paradise" right on the beach. They kept the fruity drinks coming, they were deadly on an empty stomach! We proceeded to get a nice buzz on for the afternoon as we shopped and enjoyed the beach. The evening was topped off by a fantastic sunset, that kept changing color for what seemed like forever!
From Hawaii Day Zero



Tuesday morning we rented a car and decided to explore a bit. We drove around the coast, with our goal being the North Shore. However the further north we drove, the colder it got, and eventually started to rain on us (we were working hard to figure out how to get the top back on our Subaru!)

From Hawaii Day One

From Hawaii Day One


From Hawaii Day One




Our drive offered some amazing views, and we scoped out some destinations for tomorrow. I got myself a boogie board, and Laura tried out her mask as we took our first swim in the Pacific ocean... tomorrow we will really hit the beash as it is supposed to be just gorgeous weather, sunny and 81.

Aloha!

From Hawaii Day One

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Henry

There is an artist on a personal crusade across my neighborhood in Seattle to spread crazy art. Apparently he is offering to paint murals in areas normally tagged with gang graffiti. I personally love the crazy cartoonish images that I see every day on my way to work, and crusing around Ballard, Fremont and Interbay. Last Saturday I took a Henry tour and wanted to share these photos:

From 2009 04 Henry


From 2009 04 Henry



From 2009 04 Henry


From 2009 04 Henry


From 2009 04 Henry


From 2009 04 Henry


From 2009 04 Henry



From 2009 04 Henry



From 2009 04 Henry


From 2009 04 Henry


From 2009 04 Henry

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Rock 'N India

So just for the record... on my last night in India, I saw Iron Maiden. it was rocktacular... took me right back to 1986 man. I was struck by several facts: 1) Iron Maiden still totally rock as hard as they ever did, 2) most of these songs were written before most of the Indian audience were born and 3) that did not stop everyone from enjoying the hell out of themselves.

The best part of the evening for me was discovering a new India rock band that I get a kick out of. Parikrama opened for Maiden, which was both a great opportunity as well as a difficult burden (as we were all chanting 'maiden! maiden!' between all of their songs. You can check them out, including a slew of MP3 downloads, here: http://www.parikrama.com/home.html

also while in India I met quite a few local musicians. One of the PMs at the company I was working with has a great band, MapleReed, with a video available on YouTube. Check it out! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrWuZJ0EsSI

they are trying to get into the top 20 list under www.worldsings.com support local music around the world (is that a contradiction?) and vote for them!


Rock on, brothers and sisters!

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Home safe and well

It was quite an adventure. The most difficult part was the 27 hour trip back home... eigh. but now that I'm back it was worth it, as I really missed Seattle.

And for the record, I never contracted any type of disease, or even upset stomach during my trip, despite being warned by everyone that I would. The food was like nothing I have ever had, and my body may take weeks to get back to a normal Seattle diet but other than that I weathered it all better than I expected!

Aero India

I’ve mentioned the huge air show that was going on while I was in Bangalore. But what I came to realize, reading the papers each day, was that this was not just fireworks and celebration of military might like the airshows I have seen in the US. This was actually probably the worlds largest trade show for the military industrial complex, world arms and munitions dealers, and those that purchase such wares. The discussions in the papers were comparisons of the maneouverability and weapons displays of Russian, Chinese, Israli, French, and occasionally American military aircraft. In fact apparently the big hit of the show was the new MiG fighter from Russia, with it’s ‘cobra maneouver’. Also a big controversy here was the US selling a new squadron of F16s to Pakistan. This is a nation in a volatile area of the world, in a new kind of cold war with its own neighbors, where instead of threats and posturing there is actual terror attacks and bombings, and its taken 3 months for the government of Pakistan to admit that the Mumbai attacks were launched from Karachi and actually make any arrests in the case.

On a lighter note: for Valentines day, a large group of Indian peace activists released a fleet of boats onto a river that winds its way from India into Pakistan, with a message of love. After all this IS a country whose founding father was a pacifist ;^)

 George Washington vs Mahatma Gandhi

Indians have a very different sense of history than Americans. Of course they do… for one, it’s a longer history. I can walk down the street from my hotel and see buildings that are 100, 200, or even temples 500+ years old that are still inhabited and in use today.

When we went to Tipu Sultan’s summer palace, there was a museum inside with displays and discussions of the battles between the British and India. There were British tourists there, and one of my friends explained to me that that is common, as it is there history too. What surprised me was that the battles being discussed took place in the early 1800s, and the British generals they were talking about were the same generals that had recently lost to George Washington during the American Revolution. Apparently they came to India to take out their frustration. It amazed me how all things are interconnected, even back then, on a global scale. As they used to say, the sun never sets on the British empire.
The founding father of this nation was Mahatma Gadhi. His face is on all of the paper currency, and his image is painted everywhere. I had to reflect on how our nation was founded in war, and we look up to General George Washington, whereas they admire and strive to emulate one of the greatest pacificts of all time, who led a non-violent revolution against the exact same colonial power that we fought.

Of course my twisted adolescent mind had to imagine the old Celebrity Death Match from MTV in the late 80s where claymation celebrities would duke it out. George Washington vs Mahatma Gandhi anyone? I can totally picture it…

 If you believe in God, then God will believe in you

One of my favorite sentiments from my trip came from our Guide at Mysore Palace. A big part of his tour was to point out the multiculturalism, diversity and intentional integration of arts, crafts, thoughts and beliefs from around the world. Even the architecture of the palace was designed to incorporate traditional Hindu, Muslim and Christian designs, which made for an interesting look. Also on the palace grounds are Hindu temples, Muslim mosques, and a Christian cathedral. The palace incorporated bronze tiger statues and stained glass from Scotland, traditional India carvings in wood and stone (everything was hand-carved, incredibly intricate down to the smallest detail, and patterns were consistent across entire walls and rooms) as well as technology imported from Britain and the US. Apparently Mysore palace was the first location in Asia to use electric lights from General Electric, and they had 100 year old fans in place that still work to this day.

The message was clear: the best (only?) way to overcome diversity was to celebrate it as a strength rather than a liability. Only through diversity can we synthesize new ideas and move forward to create our own history in the future. Traditionalists here (everywhere really) tend to see this as a threat to a pristine culture; I don’t see this as the case and many here seem to agree with me. Learn your history and culture, and celebrate it. Learn the history and culture of others, and celebrate that, too. Take the best parts of all, and make it your own. As the young Indians that are involved in a cultural struggle with fundamentalists here have asserted, no one person is the guardian of culture. They are Indians too, and the culture is THEIRS to do with as they collectively see fit.

Our guide at one point quoted the last reigning king of Mysore, who said to people of different faiths who questioned him about Hinduism: If you believe in God, then God will believe in you. This was what I was thinking when I had a chance to enter and pray in the Hindu temple; it’s a pretty powerful statement, when you really think about it. Makes you wonder, who is doing the pushing around of things in the universe, if the pushee becomes the pusher...

Friday, February 13, 2009

Valentines Day

** UPDATED**

The big controversy here right now is about Valentine's Day.

Apparently there is a Hindu fundamentalist group here that is concerned with the influence of Western culture on traditional Indian/Hindu culture. They oppose all of the 'Days'-- Fathers Day, Mothers day, Valentines Day, etc -- on the grounds that they are just an excuse to market and sell western products, and that love and family should really be celebrated throughout the year. Frankly in principle I agree with them... however they took it a bit too far.

The group's leader publicly announced that they would have groups roaming the streets of Bangalore on VDay, scouting for your couples expressing public displays of affection, and force them to get married on the spot! There was of course an outcry and scandals in the paper.

What really amused me however was the fact that a group formed, thanks to social networking websites, named the 'consortium of loose and pub-going women' to protest this group. And their protest consisted of encouraging women to send the leader of this group pink 'chaddis' (panties!)

Its the same thing you see all over the place. In a democratic society, you have the right to live pretty much how you choose to, until your actions infringe on the rights of others. The problem comes when people get the misguided notion that they have the right to control every aspect of their society, by controlling the actions of others. The funny thing is that the will of the people will always win out in the end. And these guys, by making such a big stink about nothing, have ended up catalyzing not only people who were on the fence about their cause, but people who at first did not care one way or another. Now there is a huge organized resistance to them, and its not going to go away anytime soon. Power to the Chaddis!

This controversy made it on MSNBC

Also I was interested to note that the office I am working in made a point of decorating for Valentine's day, to make a statement in support of freedom of expression. Rock on.

Bangalore Seasons

The seasons are strange in subtropical Bangalore. When I arrived here, this tree outside my hotel balcony was full and lush (you can see it out the window):
From Bangalore


By the end of the first week, it was almost entirely bare:
From Bangalore Day Six


By the end of the second week, it was already growing new sprouts all over.

I also chuckled at the reports in the newspaper about the health issues caused by the temperature change... sore throats, lung infections, increases in hospital cases. Its been in the 80s every day I've been here. In Seattle, we get sick when it gets cold, apparently here they get sick when the weather warms up!

Eat My Shorts

heh I was really amused when I had to have my laundry done at the hotel. You just leave it in a laundry bag on the bed, fill out a form indicating how much of each item, press, dryclean, etc.

When I got home from work late that night, my clothes were all neatly folded on my bed waiting for me. As I put them away I thought about some Indian laundress folding my Star Wars and Bart Simpsom boxer shorts. Priceless!

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

(almost) lost

so last night I was calmly enjoying my ride back to the hotel.

I had a diferent driver, a bit older than my regular driver I have had most days since I have been here.
I did not think much of it, as occasionally I have had different drivers, as I'm working weird hours and getting
out of the office anywhere from 8 to 12:30 pm. As with most of my regular drivers (and not much different than
most cab drivers in Seattle) he is on his cell phone the whole time. But all of a sudden this guy turns around to
look at me, and starts insisting 'U-turn? U-turn?'

I was kind of drifting off and not paying much attention to the road. all of a sudden I come to my senses, look around,
and try to tell him, no, its the next one. so instead of taking the uturn he was starting to take, he veers across all
lanes of traffic and exits the highway, the wrong way.

As I try to explain his mistake, and (now that I have my bearings) tell him where he needed to turn, it becomes painfully
obvious to me that he understands very little of what I am saying.

now I'm getting worried. I'm wondering, if I got out now, could I walk back to the hotel? and I'm thinking, I'm not sure
I want to do that. Luckily we only get about half a kilometer before he pulls a uturn and starts heading back at least
more generally in the right direction. I'm thinking that with hand gestures I can probably guide him back.

Then, he sees some sort of guard booth for a hotel or parking lot, with a uniformed guard inside and a few guys standing
around. he screeches to a halt in the middle of the road, shuts off the car, and calls to them. They all ask me my hotel,
which is 37 Crescent: its both the name of the hotel, AND the address, 37 Crescent Road. but I think that made it more
confusing for them: "hotel? hotel?" "37 Crescent" "what address?" "37 crescent" These guys are looking at me like
I am a moron.

After each one of the bystanders opines on the best way to find a hotel that no one seems to know anything about, and
several phone calls, we get going on the road again. Its clear that its up to me to get myself home, so I start directly
guiding my driver.

At this point, he's driving down the middle of the freeway, doing about 15 mph, cars and motorcycles careening around us
on all sides. When I see the correct uturn, it takes a while to convince him to take it. ("here?" "yes" "here?" "yes,
uturn, then left" "here??" "yes yes, take a uturn, then left, yes!") so he takes the uturn, but will not take the left.
so we end up going back down the highway a few blocks, until he finally stops and starts asking more bystanders for
directions. I am frantically trying to explain to all of them, "its right back there" gesticulating wildly at the road
we just passed. so, and this was just perfect, he shifts into reverse and proceeds to back through oncoming highway traffic
until we return to the correct street, where he blocks the intersection turning the car around, then finally takes the correct
turn.

then as we are dricing down the road he is still
obviously unsure of himself. he's ready to stop at any house or parked car ("here?" "no" "here?" "no" "here?" "no,
straight!") even when there is clearly no side street, he's asking and looking like he's going to turn ("left?" "no,
straight" "left?" "no, keep going" "right?" "no, no!")

Finally, when I successfully guide him to the hotel, I point at the big sign that says 37 crescent, and he erupts in hilarious
laughter. I think he finally realized that I was not completely insane. at least thats one of us. :^)e

More Roadtrip pics...

I got a copy of the pics from Rohith's camera, and am uploading them now. They can be accessed here:

Bangalore Day Eight (Rohiths Cam)


From Bangalore Day Eight (Rohiths Cam)


captions and more stories to come later...

Monday, February 9, 2009

Speed Bumps

On our way to Mysore, I became acutely aware of the plethora of speed bumps in India. Based on what I have observed, this (along with portable metal gates randomly placed on the roads) is the primary means of controllling speed and flow of traffic. Poor Rohith kept wincing as he slowly eased his low-riding Honda over (or around, when possible) the larger of these speed bumps, often with a horrible scraping sound coming from the undercarriage.

On the way back to Bangalore after dark, it was particularly difficult to see the bumps coming up, as I did not notice that there were signs or markers of any sort. When I commented on this the next day in the office, I was told that there is not really any central authority that handles creation or regulation of these speed bumps. In other words, it seems that individuals or neighborhoods put them in as they see fit, if they feel the traffic is too much or too fast! I seem to recall a Malcolm in the Middle episode about this ;^)

The Air India show is this week. This appears to be similar to Seafair back in Seattle (except much bigger.) The festivities are taking place at the new Bangalore International Airport... the offices I am working in are on the main road to the airport. This morning I noticed a distinct change... my once sleepy hotel was bustling with activity and guests down for breakfast (prior to this, often I was the only guest eating at the buffet.) The road and traffic was even more crazy if thats possible. I'm not sure if I will get a chance to see any of the airshow. There is a rooftop cafeteria with a grand view of the outskirts of Bangalore, possibly I can catch some aerial acrobatics from there. Despite being a pacifist, I have always loved a good airshow... too bad those jets are designed to kill people. :^(

Again, back to work. Things are pretty crazy here, not to mention I am trying to keep up with developments back in Seattle. No rest for the wicked!

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Roadtrip

Yesterday I took an absolutely incredible roadtrip from Bangalore to a city called Mysore (and Wild Places in between!)

From Bangalore Day Eight


From Bangalore Day Eight


There is so much to describe, each stop along the way deserves it's own post. but simply because everyone has been asking me for a blog update, here's the highlights with links to the huge photo album I have uploaded of the day: (I will let the photos do the talking)

  • Janapada Loka Indian Folk Culture Center

    From Bangalore Day Eight


    From Bangalore Day Eight



  • Ranganathitu Wildlife Sanctuary

    From Bangalore Day Eight


    Crocodiles sunning themselves on a rock...
    From Bangalore Day Eight


  • Tipu Sultan's summer palace

    From Bangalore Day Eight



  • Mysore Palace

    From Bangalore Day Eight


    I rode on an elephant...
    From Bangalore Day Eight

    Prayed at a Hindu temple...
    From Bangalore Day Eight


  • Brindavan Botanical Gardens



    From Bangalore Day Eight


    From Bangalore Day Eight


    From Bangalore Day Eight



    Then we returned to Mysore Palace to view it lit up at night:
    From Bangalore Day Eight



    An incredible day!
    From Bangalore Day Eight

    Stories to come... for now, back to work.